AMSTERDAM — It’s mid-August, and tourists have returned to the city center. They stroll along narrow cobbled streets, ducking into shops selling the latest fashions, including a growing number of clothes made by homegrown可持续品牌。
These young fashion labels are the most visible players in Amsterdam’s efforts to create a model for local, circular textile production, but there’s a whole lot more happening in parts of the city most visitors don’t see, such as the industrial area that lies just across the river in the city’s Noord (north) section.
I catch a ferry behind the central train station and cross the water under a heavy grey sky. It has been unseasonably cool and rainy, and as if on cue, it starts to drizzle as I ride my rented bike down a road lined not with canals, but with warehouses and construction sites. Near the road’s end, I find the squat structure that houses续签研讨会这家初创公司的联合创始人之一杰夫·丹比（Jeff Denby）向我致意。
丹比（Denby）于2019年从该公司的俄勒冈州喀斯喀特锁基地（Cascade Locks）搬到阿姆斯特丹（Amsterdam），以在此处设立和扩展其运营。在仓库内，工作人员正忙于检查，清洁，标记和修理衣服 - 在线购物者返回的原始物品略有损坏，甚至是通过“收回”程序送回的二手衣服。稍后，将它们的品牌，汤米·希尔菲格（Tommy Hilfiger）和北面（North Face）等合作伙伴或更新工作室自己的网站上的合作伙伴转售。无法夸大的东西归功于各种合作伙伴进行回收。
丹比告诉我，这家初创公司决定使阿姆斯特丹成为欧洲基地的决定归结为这些主要因素：两项荷兰影响基金的投资；许多时尚品牌总部和分销中心；将英语用作主要商务语言；以及一个繁荣的循环时尚生态系统，包括非营利组织，例如圈子经济and永远的时尚，，，，the latter of which connects sustainable fashion entrepreneurs with brands, mentors and investors through its global accelerator and scaling programs.
丹比说：“当我们考虑在欧洲的位置，我们要着陆是有意义的，而这已经是三年前了，这里已经有很多关于循环性的对话。”“我们想成为像枢纽一样的地方，这些对话正在发生。”
Home to denim makers such as泥牛仔裤and库里奇，，，，and apparel labels such as循环。生活，，，，Studio Juxand正统，阿姆斯特丹不仅是一个非正式私营部门意识上的循环时尚枢纽，而且该市拥有自己的野心，是建立自己成为循环经济领导者的总体野心。手机app买球靠谱吗在过去的几年中，该市制定了食品，建筑环境和消费品的循环策略，并特别着重于服装和纺织品。（尽管不像巴黎和米兰的时尚广泛认可，但阿姆斯特丹是全球牛仔都资本，拥有牛仔裤公司数量最多世界上每平方公里。）
In 2018, the city council adopted a proposal to become a frontrunner in the circular fashion sector, which has since translated into the following 2025 goals: 25 percent recycled or sustainable material in all new garments sold, and recycling of 30 percent of the region’s post-consumer textile materials. Those percentages increase to 50 percent for 2030.
为了实现这些目标20％在世界上的工业水污染中，导致垃圾车的价值降落在一个每秒垃圾填埋场或焚化炉- 到一个使用可回收或可再生材料设计和生产新衣服的系统，现有材料的寿命通过各种商业模式（例如租赁平台，二手商店，维修服务，回溯和转售平台）延长。
Borre Akkersdijk是Byborre，它创建了一个数字平台，允许设计师和品牌使用可持续和回收的材料设计其产品。CJ Clouse摄
Rolling out the red carpet
这还将需要各种参与者之间的大量合作与合作，包括在现场工作的地方政府机构和企业，将其产品出售给荷兰消费者的国际品牌以及创建循环解决方案的初创公司，更不用说投资者了。
“政府确实推动创新，确实鼓励年轻企业家，” Borre Akkersdijk的联合创始人Byborre，告诉我什么时候在创业公司的工作室和生产工厂见面。Byborre创建了一个数字平台，允许设计师和品牌使用可持续和回收的材料设计其产品，然后可以在现场生产其样品。
"You can think very big here and start small, which is logical because we are small," he says.
Marike Geertsma is one of the local government representatives working to make circular fashion and textile innovation happen. Geertsma leads the fashion sector team at阿姆斯特丹企业，阿姆斯特丹地区的外国投资机构，该机构可帮助外国公司建立和发展其业务。
以及其他城市办公室，例如StartupAmsterdam，，，，an agency dedicated to improving the local business climate for startups, scale-ups and innovative SMEs, amsterdam inbusiness is charged with attracting and supporting foreign companies that can help turn the city's vision for the future into a reality on the ground as quickly as possible.
Geertsma在最近的电话中告诉我：“我们正在尝试将本地和国际初创公司和企业联系起来，以确保该生态系统的发展速度更快，更好，更可持续。”“并确保我们可以声称自己是欧洲可持续时尚最具创新性的枢纽。”
Geertsma和她的团队在过去的18个月左右的时间里绘制了该地区现有的循环时尚组织和企业网络，并确定需要填充的漏洞。
即使是像荷兰和阿姆斯特丹市这样的小国，也会对可持续性和责任产生全球影响。竞彩足球app怎么下载
为此，“我们非常欢迎可以为我们经济可持续发展做出贡献的国际公司。此外，肯定会推出红地毯。”
Of course, foreign businesses looking to set up shop in Amsterdam do have to meet certain general requirements, such as contributing to the local economy and creating jobs. And startups should have a viable business model with a track record of investment and operations in their own countries.
想要：有一点耐心的投资者
更新工作坊是一个很好的例子，它勾选了所有盒子：俄勒冈州不断增长的行动；以前不存在的特定维修和转售业务模型；创造就业机会（在阿姆斯特丹雇用20名员工）；以及确保投资的记录。
Three European impact investors — Dutch funds Social Impact Ventures and SHIFT Invest, and Switzerland’s Quadia — led the financing of the company’s Netherlands expansion. Denby and co-founder Nicole Bassett were connected to the funds through Fashion for Good, after participating in the organization’s scaling program.
几位企业家告诉我，除了驾驶该国的监管和法律制度以及一般官僚机构外，获得私人融资是荷兰越来越多的创业公司的最大挑战之一。国民政府的荷兰企业机构(RVO) does offer financial support in the form of subsidies and grants, along with a variety of other services. However, the pool of private venture funding for the sustainable fashion sector, particularly patient capital, hasn’t yet risen to the level needed, although both the city and Fashion for Good are making progress in building the sector’s roster of investors.
格雷格·斯蒂尔曼（Greg Stillman天然纤维焊接，告诉我八月份的电话。“有一些实体弹出，但远远没有创业公司的成长和促进他们的冒险所需的东西。我确实认为它将被解决；它的发展速度较慢。”
天然纤维焊接总部位于伊利诺伊州的皮奥里亚（Peoria），开发了一种可持续的化学处理方法，可提高再生棉纤维和纱线的质量，因此可以用来生产新服装。该公司还生产类似植物的皮革材料。
斯蒂尔曼（Stillman）坠入爱河并与荷兰妇女结婚后移居荷兰。他找到了一份工作，帮助在2018年参加Scaleing计划时，在时尚的时尚中运行了全球加速器计划，在那里他与自然纤维焊接的人们建立了联系。
他说：“我基本上说服了他们雇用我。”“这个想法是，要在欧洲市场上认真对待，您需要一个存在。”
Hasna, a member of the quality control team at The Renewal Workshop, inspects a pair of jeans at the company's Amsterdam factory. Photo by CJ Clouse
Proving the model
阿姆斯特丹并不孤单。欧盟已经做出了圆形主支柱of its climate policy and plans to invest billions of euros in research, innovation and digitalization aimed at transitioning to a fully手机app买球靠谱吗到2050年循环经济。这种过渡始于欧盟指令，例如到2025年的强制性单独收集纺织品废物。
作为会员国，荷兰共享欧盟的总体目标，尽管它自己手机app买球靠谱吗循环经济计划将信封进一步推动，诸如2030年将主要自然资源的使用削减一半。的确，2020 report从圆形经济中发现，荷兰是世界上最圆形的国家。
The demand for a more sustainable model from both European consumers and governments has forced international fashion brands to the table, people I spoke to in Amsterdam said. Although how willingly and rapidly they will change remains to be seen, their minds and ears seemed to have opened.
Kanak Hirani是班加罗尔人，她于2006年移居阿姆斯特丹，现在经营着自己的道德服装品牌 -朱拉哈斯（英语织布工） - 印度农村工匠手工编织的披肩，包裹和皮带，其中70％的女性。当我在她的工作室里见到她时，她解释说，在欧盟和联合国妇女资助的可持续时尚企业家的共同大流行之前，她参加了一个行业破坏者计划。
凳子的一条薄弱的腿是资金，尤其是为年轻公司提供的风险投资。它不像其余的生态系统那样发达。
"They actually put us in a room with sustainability representatives from H&M, and they came to us saying, ‘We have a lot of inventory, and we’re really turning to you because you are brands that were born sustainable. How would you tell us to address this inventory issue?’" Hirani says. "It was a very interesting session talking about how they could explore reselling models, how they could explore rental models. ... And they were actually listening."
Back at The Renewal Workshop, under the glare of the warehouse lights, a staff member called Hengameh (who asked that we use only her first name) is sewing up the ripped hem of a beautiful gold-colored coat. Other than this one defect, the coat is in perfect condition.
丹比说：“您可以想象，在这台巨大的机器内部摇摆并出售衣服的内部，这件外套最终陷入了废物堆中，因为底部的下摆骨折了。”“现在亨格梅保存了它。”
与200万公吨纺织品欧洲人每年扔掉。但这也是对阿姆斯特丹对未来的愿景的看法，我交谈的人们说，他们想与世界其他地区分享。
"Even a small country like the Netherlands, and the city of Amsterdam, can have a global impact on sustainability and responsibility," Akkersdijk says. "We can set an example of how it can be done. So the idea is to prove the model and then scale it."
