什么样的时尚：包括彪马，H＆M和Burberry Don New Carbon Predges在内的时尚巨头

An international climate conference is not the first place you might go looking for global fashion industry giants. But in the conference halls of Katowice, Poland, this week, leaders of some of the world's most successful clothing companies, ranging from fast-fashion leaders H&M to luxury labels such as Burberry, gathered to launch a groundbreaking new industry initiative to promote sustainable fashion.

TheFashion Industry Charter for Climate Action (PDF),豪华设计师Stella McCartney落后earlier this month, was formally unveiled Dec. 10 with the backing of 43 fashion organizations, including consumer brands, key suppliers and sustainable fashion organizations.

联合国气候变化秘书处负责人帕特里夏·埃斯皮诺萨（Patricia Espinosa）在发布会上说，《宪章》的揭幕是“今年警察最激动人心的时刻之一”。

Alongside the interim emissions target for 2030, the charter also sets out a promise to end the use of coal-fired boilers or other sources of coal-fired heat and power generation by fashion companies and their direct suppliers from 2025.

Meanwhile, six working groups also will be convened from January to help drive "concrete progress" against the charter's commitments on circular production, low-carbon transport and improved consumer awareness.

我认为该行业越来越准备合作，并越来越准备拥有一种声音。

除了技术承诺之外，Espinosa还谈到了该行业需要反思“文化榜样”的时装业向全球消费者设定的“文化榜样”。“当你说话时，人们会听。”她告诉代表。“你的声音很重要。”

The industry-wide initiative comes at a time when the fashion industry, particularly in the United Kingdom, is coming under intense scrutiny over its environmental impacts. Members of Parliament on the Environmental Committee publicly have questioned the bosses of fashion firms such as Boohoo, Missguided and ASOS on the paucity of their climate strategies and are expected to deliver a hard-hitting report on the industry's environmental profile in the new year.

PUMA公司可持续性负责人Stefan Seidel在Katowice的《宪章》上发表讲话时说，时装界有明显的商业原因采取行动来应对气候变化。竞彩足球app怎么下载

例如，进入可再生能源为发展中国家的生产公司提供了一个机会，以使自己免受网格停电的风险，这可能需要将昂贵的柴油发电机用作备用电源或完全停止生产。

Meanwhile, the impacts of climate change will be bad for business if they are not curbed, Seidel pointed out, pointing to how the long hot summer in Europe has put a serious dent in winter clothing sales, while the outlook for specialist winter clothing producers is even bleaker. "Who wants to buy winter clothes when it's 25 degrees [Celsius] outside?" he asked.

Coming together as a collective force under the charter is essential for driving industry change, Seidel added. "Why do we have to do it together? The reason is very simple," he said. "We work with very long fragmented supply chains, where the most energy consumption is actually taking place. [But] it's typically not our direct business partners — it's in the lower tiers of the supply chain, the dye houses and the tanneries, and there typically brands like ours don't have direct business relationships, and we share those suppliers with a wide range of other customers. So, therefore, it is essential that we are actually working together, the leading brands and retailers of this sector and also the manufacturers… we all need to work together otherwise we have no leverage on our supply chains.

"If we do work together, on the other hand, we can see that much progress is possible."

Pamela Batty, vice president of corporate responsibility at Burberry, agreed co-ordinated action was needed across the industry. "Supply chains are hugely complex, and this is going to take participation and engagement from actors across the value chain," she told delegates. "But I think the industry is increasingly prepared to collaborate and increasingly prepared to have one voice."

That spirit of collaboration was not in evidence at the other high-profile event Monday on the sidelines of the COP24 Summit, as the U.S. administration hosted its only side event of the talks: a packed-out fringe panel that saw America attempt to promote "greener and cleaner" fossil fuel energy.

The event barely had started before dozens of protestors disrupted proceedings, declaring their intention to "speak truth to power" and keep fossil fuel power "in the ground."

The Trump administration may have brought the high drama to Katowice this week. But it was up to fashion leaders to bring not only a touch of style, but also positive ambitions, to the event.